'Limited edition', 'rare', 'exclusive' and the like are words that are so often banded about by chocolate makers that as a reviewer and retailer of chocolate we often become deaf to them. But putting those marketing terms to one side, this truly is a fantastic chocolate, and dare I say it 'special'?
The truth is that just aren't many pure Criollo anywhere in the world, but historically the ones grown around Xoconochco in Mexico have produced some outstanding cocoa. The term 'Criollo' means something different for 'native' growers than it does to us in the 'west'. For them it means 'local' - whatever has grown locally for generations. For those with PHDs and those that believe them assert that theirs is a particular core genetic strain of cocoa. But that's not what is important here. The amount of fine cocoa grown in the vicinity of Xoconochco is horrendously limited and whilst Bonnat has managed to secure enough for a short run, supply and demand has meant that he price we've managed to secure these bars is double that of many of their other bars.
It's almost impossible to say any chocolate is worth the price. But what we can say that if you love creamy chocolate with very clear but superbly 'in tune' flavours then this chocolate is a must for you.
The aroma may not give an indication of the quality inside. It's like an artist's emporium that has a dull exterior but contains sublime works within. You should get typical freshly cut pinewood on the nose - and possibly even wax.
On the tongue it lays low for a while, much like much Friis Holm chocolate and then it softly builds up; much like a DJ might finish one tune and move into another. There are neither drum nor guitar solos here. It's more Adele than Queen.
Tannins do appear throughout the excellent melt, but they're far less noticeable than the hazelnut, blackberries and cream that are the main focus.
|Ingredients||Cocoa (minimum 75%), cocoa butter, sugar.|